Bali: Seminyak shopping & Uluwatu wedding reception

It's all about location when it comes to vacation, says yours truly. So for my second trip to fabulous Bali, I chose Fave Hotel in Seminyak which sat smack in the middle of pretty much everything - Seminyak beach is 10 minutes by foot, night entertainment is a mere 5 minutes walk, and a 24-hour convenience store is just across the street.

Fave Hotel in Seminyak is brand new and is within walking distance to the shops, beach, restaurants, etc.

And for you shopaholics out there, the whole stretch of the main streets Jalan Raya Seminyak and Jalan Raya Legian await your very presence! I should know since I spent 2 hours scouring the shops only to end up buying a unisex-looking head-turning basket-like bag (seems to be my new rage, these basketry things), an original-looking fake designer satchel (sorry, Paul Smith), and a touristy-looking bracelet made of polished striped glass pieces (cheap and chic) - all done while waiting for my 3.30 pm appointment with an expensive-looking Australian-owned hair saloon. On another note, eateries are abound, both halal and non-halal, so no worries about going hungry.

I was here this time around to attend a dear friend's wedding, actually. But not in bustling Seminyak, na-ah. It's in Uluwatu, an area where the hotel rates were as steep as the cliffs they were built on. So after a Saturday night's stay at the less-than-a-year-old Fave Hotel, it's time for me to sit on the lap of luxury at Alila Villas Uluwatu. A 5-star boutique resort with several international accolades only within its few years of opening, no wonder it is the most expensive accommodation I had ever stayed in to date!

Alila Villas Uluwatu. A taste of the high life for ordinary people like me ;)

The iconic sunset cabana.

An impeccable attention to detail is what makes this place so special.

Greeted by a gentle spritz of refreshing tonic onto my face and a sea view to die for, I was then whisked away to my one-bedroom villa on a buggy. The floor-to-ceiling door opened up to a huge living space with sleek modern furnishings. It came with a daybed which seconded as a viewing deck to enjoy the panorama of the blue sea (albeit a wee bit far depending on your villa's location) from which you can jump straight into your private swimming pool (also award-winning apparently), and not forgetting the now standard outdoor rainshower to suit your naturalistic cravings ;)

A hermit crab in my villa (looks big but it's less than an inch actually). You're too far from the beach, my friend!

Lounging before going to bed. Goodnight, people...

Sunrise at the sunset cabana.

Good morning, Alila!

Plus, this helluva resort was only a 10-minute drive from my friend's equally impressive wedding reception venue, Semara Luxury Villa Resort. Alas, I still managed to arrive fashionably late (in Dior Homme, nonetheless) hence missing the part where the bride and groom came out at sunset (sorry you guys)!

Guests waiting for the bride and groom at their garden wedding reception  in Semara Luxury Villa Resort, Uluwatu.

The wedding reception itself was a blast (I don't know about the 2 other weddings going on in the resort that same evening, though). Customarily greeted by the bridegroom's father at the villa entrance, I handed the wedding present I bought in KL and hurried past a corridor of beautifully lit white flowers above my head to the cliffside private garden. A moment later, the couple and their parents gave their short speeches on a specially built floating stage atop the swimming pool following a performance by Balinese dancers. After the couple sat at the main table for dinner, a live band serenaded us with love songs whilst I enjoyed my food and chatted with old friends. The sweet smell of white flowers lingering around the dining area really was a nice surprise for me (aaah..). The couple mingled with the guests for a while before changing into their third outfit for the cake cutting ceremony at the edge of the cliff, followed by 5 minutes of lively fireworks.

That's a really nice dress, Mae. And a really nice man to go with it :)

This slice is chocolate. The next slice is strawberry. Yummy!

Ate my slice of the yummy 3-tiered chocolate and strawberry cake while children danced to current music hits, took some photos and bid farewell to the lucky couple. It was 8 years ago since I last saw them and this night will surely be remembered. Thanks for the invitation and lovely reception, Mae and Rameysh. It's been a long way :)

Thanks for the invitation and lovely reception :)

Borobudur, Prambanan & Yogyakarta - Part 2

From the ancient Buddhist temple at Borobudur, I ventured 18 km eastward of Yogyakarta to another ancient temple, this time a Hindu one. Like other parts of the Malay archipelago, the long history of trading with the world had brought with it religion from far away places.

The Prambanan temple complex, being previously ravaged by a couple of earthquakes and looting, was literally (and impressively) pieced back together stone by stone in recent years - it's quite hard to believe that it was pretty much a heap of rubble before the 1950's! Since the main temples were rebuilt, it's purpose as a place of Hindu worship has been resumed. A surge in the number of visitors has also been observed since its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991. And if you're lucky, you may just be able to watch the Ramayana ballet held nearby with the temples as a backdrop ;)

Chinese visitors gawking at the Prambanan temple complex - being rebuilt stone by stone, I was impressed too!

Indeed, the sheer determination of the Javanese people in preserving their history and tradition really took my breath away. Breathe in... breathe out... Okay, let's move on to Yogyakarta city, shall we?

Yogyakarta (or Jogja for short) is a bustling city dotted with architectural remnants of her Dutch colonialist past. That being said, I am so not interested in those things since it would only remind me of my own country's sad history - being colonised for hundreds of years by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British :(  In fact, I was more into it's cultural and artistic facets established way before those sneaky Europeans came.

Upon passing by the main street Jalan Malioboro, one can see it littered with batik shops left and right. If you don't know what batik is, you will do in an instant! On seeing them, the first thing I did was to ask the taxi driver to stop by an ATM machine 'coz I knew I'd be spending money like flowing water here :) And a moment later when the cabby offered to take me to a boutique selling genuinely high quality batik (instead of being duped at one of them stores at Jalan Malioboro), it was a no brainer for me to say, "Yes!"

Batik Rumah was definitely a different kind of batik store, alright. Discreetly tucked away among private residences, it was deceptively calm and uncrowded probably because of the higher prices of the goods sold here. But as the Malay saying goes: alah membeli menang memakai (literal translation: you lose at buying but you'll win at using/wearing it) i.e. good things don't come cheap! Every piece of cloth here was either hand-painted (hence each piece is unique) or printed using the traditional batik making method - either way means great quality. I had to stop myself from grabbing more after a few select buys and off I went to my hotel...

Nicely decorated room at Eclipse Hotel.

My 3-starish accomodation, Eclipse Hotel is located at Jalan Prawirotaman in a quieter part of town. Whilst not being smack in the city centre, this spanking new establishment makes up by offering a blazing fast wi-fi connection and a private balcony overlooking a rather nice swimming pool. Plus, the small area across the street is a parking spot for beca (trishaws), which later proved to be the best mode of transport to go round the city for me, albeit their limited speed.

Nice pool view from my room's balcony. But more importantly, the brilliantly fast free wi-fi connection :)

Soon after checking in, I came back down and I asked one of the beca riders to take me to somewhere decent for my long overdue lunch so he brought me to a local eatery where the food was yummy and the price was right (couldn't remember where, though). Burp!

With my stomach full and my energy restored, we headed to Masjid Agung (Grand Mosque). Built in 1773 and bearing immaculate Javanese architecture, this building still stands as the main mosque of the city. After joining the Maghrib prayers with the locals, I sat around for a while, listening to a circle of men reciting the Quran, and absorbing the tranquility of this holy place. Just outside the mosque's entrance, there were some stalls selling local titbits. Reminding myself that I would most likely be needing some midnight snacks, I grabbed something sweet before leaving the mosque and retiring for the day.

Enjoying the tranquility of Quran recital after prayers at Masjid Agung Yogyakarta.

The next day was kickstarted by a visit to Taman Sari and Kraton Yogyakarta. After a quick shower and breakfast, I was on the road again in a beca! On arrival, I told my beca rider to wait for me while I tour around the venues, which was fine by him. Taman Sari used to be the bath house of the Sultan's household. In the olden days, the Sultan's many wives would bathe together in a large pool and the Sultan would choose which wife he wanted to sleep with that night just by flicking a flower from a balcony located high above - because he had magical powers, the flower would land exactly on the wife he so desired!

Taman Sari (Water Castle) was the royal bath house circa 1800's.

An intriguing portion of Taman Sari called Sumur Gumuling was believed to be a small mosque. Currently unused but still quite photogenic, this place is now just another spot for wedding photography. Although Islam has its roots way back for hundreds of years, traditional beliefs still exerts some influence on the lives of the Javanese as evidenced by a part of the bath house thought to be connected to the Indian Ocean where the mystical Nyai Roro Kidul (Queen of the South Sea) lives.

The stairway at Sumur Gumuling, Taman Sari.

On entering the palace courtyard of Kraton Yogyakarta, the sound of the gamelan (traditional Javanese orchestra) caught my ears. Being a fan of it for so long, I took my own sweet time (of a mere 15 minutes, haha) being serenaded by the relaxing tune of gongs, old ladies singing and whatnot. Apparently, the palace is now a centre for the preservation of Javanese culture with certain traditional art forms being displayed on a regular basis.

The gamelan in action: traditional music played by locals in traditional costume at a traditional venue. Lovely...

As before, I asked for a guide to show me around the palace because that would be better than just strolling around blindly without knowing anything about it (plus I was too lazy to read, hehe). Speaking sometimes in Indonesian and sometimes in English, my guide explained that tourists have to be out of the palace grounds by 2 pm i.e. well before the Sultan is back from office; ever since it was built in 1755, the complex has housed the Yogyakarta royal family up to this day.

Kraton Yogyakarta showcases Javanese architecture at its best.

A beautiful gazebo at the palace courtyard.

Alas, as knowledgeable and multilingual as he was, my guide still couldn't help those souvenir shopkeepers from grumbling when I left their shops at the end of the tour without buying anything :) Oh, you know me, I never like keeping puppets in my house, including those authentic wayang kulit (shadow puppet) ones that they were selling...

Borobudur, Prambanan & Yogyakarta - Part 1

I must admit I am naturally drawn to this cultural hotspot known as Java. Amidst the undulating landscapes of quietly rumbling volcanoes and valleys of lush tropical rainforest, the people of Java thrives on their palpable passion for life (and acres of paddy fields, of course). In South-east Asia where a multitude of cultures flourish, Javanese tradition is immediately recognizable - it's that strong. That being said, Yogyakarta and neighbouring Solo surely make up the beating heart of it.

The Garuda Indonesia flight from beautiful Bali was hassle-free. Once arrived at Yogyakarta, I was greeted by a sight of taxis and beca (trishaws) lining the parking lot, waiting for customers. It was getting dark so I quickly hauled my bags into one of the taxis, told the driver my destination and off we went westward to Magelang where my hotel was located. As we passed by silhouettes of houses and shops, I listened to the driver's ramblings about the recent eruption of Mount Merapi and its devastating sequelae - debris gushed upon the city as an unstoppable mud flood, bringing with it giant boulders, some the size of a house! 

Conveniently built within walking distance from Borobudur, Manohara Hotel was the only hotel that ran a sunrise tour of the temple (with an added fee), and that was the main reason I booked a room there. The hotel was not 5-star but its facilities and service were reasonably adequate. They even thoughtfully placed a big book on Borobudur on your queen-sized bed for your reading pleasure - a sure indicator of the hotel's target customers, historians and researchers. Not really bothered by history lessons that late at night, I put the book away, hit the shower and before I knew it I was fast asleep. Zzzz...

Headless Buddha statues sat still as the rolling mist blanketed a nearby village in the wee hours.

The anticipation to watch the sunrise was enough to wake me up at 4 in the morning (I would have to wake up way earlier if I were to join those tour groups departing from Yogyakarta city). I got ready and headed to the concierge desk to start the climb up the temple. Armed with a camera in one hand and a torchlight given by the concierge in the other, a bunch of us tourists dutifully followed a guide through the darkness until we reached the temple.

Borobudur is flanked on either side by the active volcanoes Merapi and Merbabu.

As the sun was about to rise at 5.30 a.m., it began to drizzle (oh no!). A couple of Americans who were lugging large DSLRs and tripods started swearing and people who wouldn't stand a bit of rain just wandered off. I was disappointed too but I reminded myself to make full use of the fee that I paid so I waited there until the rain subsided an hour later, taking cover under the carved stone arches of the stairway :(

I waited until the rain subsided to make full use of the fee, unlike some other people (scoff!).

During my visit, the level with the topmost stupa was closed to the public so as to allow it to be cleaned of the volcanic ash spewed by Mount Merapi. Indeed, a thin layer of the ash was still spotted along the way to the exit later on. Ash aside, the stone murals depicting the eventful life of Buddha which encircle the entire structure made up a truly impressive example of human handwork. However, all the waiting in the cold had probably numbed me of some of the excitement :)

Borobudur after the rain.

So there you go, no picture of sunrise at Borobudur for me, huhu. As a consolation, I did get some good photos of the temple, but nothing really spectacular, I must say. The breakfast with the view of the temple and butterflies fleeting around was really nice, but I left Borobudur less than inspired, I even skipped stopping by at the lesser Candi Mendut before I left for Yogyakarta city. And those persistent peddlers on the way out of the temple complex sure did not make things any better...

Bali, a retreat for the inner soul - Part 3

Garden Villa at Kamandalu Resort & Spa near Ubud - because you're worth it!

How can I not adore this place - a beautiful location next to paddy fields, amazing service, with my own garden day-bed and an outdoor rainshower! Kamandalu Resort & Spa could seriously screw your sightseeing plans, whether you like it or not.

Really enjoying the day-bed. The outdoor rainshower is on the left with the adjoining bathroom with no curtains. Oops!

Really nice room :)

Once, while going for a short morning trek among the paddy fields, I even saw those white herons which catapulted the adjacent Petulu village to fame - if only my camera had at least 20X optical zoom, I would have been able to snap some decent photos of them shy birds ;) Oh, and not to mention the naked villagers I saw bathing in the streams, haha :)

Paddy field trekking. Beware of naked villagers bathing in the streams!

Guided by my hungry stomach, I managed to pry myself out of my garden villa and into a cafe-lounge in central Ubud. Ubud is of course the artistic centre of Bali. Handicrafts, paintings, sculptures made of wood or stone - everything from visual arts to performing arts - they're all here. And if you're pressed for time, there is always Ubud Market, a one-stop shopping extravaganza. Shop till you drop during the day and when the shops close, watch all the dance performances to your hearts content. Very convenient if you ask me. In fact I did exactly that :)

The symbol of power at Puri Saren Agung, the residence of the Balinese royal family in central Ubud. Smile!

Not much space to venture into as you're only allowed to wander in the courtyard :(

Depending on where they are held, most shows start around 7.30 pm including at the centrally located Ubud Palace. Different venues showcase different dances and these change every night, so search the net for an updated dance schedule before you go barging in ;)

Legong dance at Ubud Palace. Shake your bon-bon.. or maybe not.

Kecak dance at Pura Dalem Ubud starts at 8 pm.

The next morning, I got myself a little side trip to see Pura Taman Ayun, the temple complex for Balinese royalty at Mengwi famous for its multitiered meru before moving on to another great spot, Tanah Lot. 

Pura Taman Ayun at Mengwi - tall, taller, tallest!

The Pan Pacific Nirwana Resort at Tanah Lot was specifically chosen because it was one of the few hotels open for business on Hari Raya Nyepi. That is, open but still respecting the rules of Nyepi - no lighting fires, no working, no entertainment, no travelling. Nyepi is the Balinese Hindu day of silence, fasting and meditation. If I am going to be stuck in a hotel for the whole day, why not make it a good hotel, eh? Well, apart from feeling treated second rate to white tourists, it's not that bad considering the superb location. The hotel also offered a free shuttle bus to see an ogoh-ogoh procession at a nearby village but there was a thunderstorm that night so I'd rather not go.

Pan Pacific Nirwana Tanah Lot - stand at the edge and let the breeze take your mind off things...

The room looks nice but the floor is curiously wet all the time :(

A visit to Pura Tanah Lot is ever-tempting to say the least. The temple is believed to be built by the 15th century priest Nirartha and is one of the 7 sea temples around the Balinese coast. Perched on top of a tiny rock formation, it was definitely a wonderful sight. I got there a bit late in the morning so the place was already swarming with tourists. On top of that, I didn't get to take photos of the temple at sunset despite a 2-night stay at Tanah Lot, which would be awesome (I blame the rain). Oh well, maybe next time :(

Tanah Lot temple swarmed by visitors, local and foreign alike.

That's all for my personally enlightening week-long island excursion, folks! Since this trip was supposed to be a mind-soothing getaway from work and everyday stresses, I wasn't really bothered to see the tourist-strewn beaches of Kuta and Jimbaran, nor was I excited about the bopping club beats at KuDeTa and the likes this time round, although I have a sneaking suspicion that I will be back, haha :)

Bali, a retreat for the inner soul - Part 2

The 3 resident black ducks of Danu Bratan.

That morning I was greeted by the cheerful quacks of the 3 resident black ducks of Danu Bratan after I returned from the neighbourhood mosque for my morning prayers. The lake itself was pretty much uncontaminated, as several species of wild birds may be spotted here, much to any birdwatcher's delight.

Locals leaving for Pura Ulun Danu Bratan after offering prayers by the lake.

The celebration of Hari Nyepi only a few days away had resulted in the whole island being enlivened with back-to-back religious ceremonies and people putting finishing touches to their ogoh-ogoh (large puppets representing demons paraded on the eve of Nyepi). I was even lucky enough to witness a Balinese ritual while having my breakfast by the lake :) Worshippers in their best clothes gathered at the water's edge to offer prayers and afterwards they followed a band of traditional musicians to the nearby temple, Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.

Watching a Balinese ritual while having breakfast by the lake - priceless. For everything else, there's Mastercard ;)

After breakfast, Wayan and his brother agreed to take me to Kebun Raya Eka Karya (Botanical Gardens) at Candikuning in Bedugul (entrance fee IDR 7000, car parking IDR 6000). I spent 2 hours brisk walking among the tall trees and looking at some gorgeous orchids, cacti and whatnot - it sure felt like a cardio workout.

The Lady's Slipper - the kind your feet wouldn't fit into.

Perched on higher grounds, one can enjoy a panoramic view of the whole of Danu Bratan from the Botanical Gardens. There is also a guesthouse in situ aimed mainly at scientists who would come to study the plants and trees, aptly named Guesthouse Etnobotani. I did not book a room there since it is located quite far uphill from the main entrance but if you have your own vehicle, it's all good.

The location of Guesthouse Etnobotani may be quite a hassle if you don't have your own means of transport.

On my way to my next accomodation near Ubud, the taxi driver suggested that I drop by at Tegal Sari Bali Coffee & Spices in Tabanan to sample some local coffee including the infamous luwak coffee (a.k.a. the most expensive coffee in the world) made from the sweetest coffee beans selected, eaten and excreted by civet cats. It tasted so good, I had to buy a jar of luwak coffee for souvenir!

Bali, a retreat for the inner soul - Part 1

The water temple, Pura Ulun Danu Bratan at dawn.

Good morning, Bali! It's quite hard to believe that I was waking up next to a serene lake 1200 metres above sea level, a far cry from the hustle and bustle of Timor-Leste's dusty capital, Dili where I was working at that moment. Like all my previous adventures, I took a good week or so to carefully plan my travels so as to fit my personal needs, to find the most strategic accommodations and to minimise cost, while also allowing some flexibility.

It was quarter past 6 in the morning and I leapt out of bed for a quick shower because I didn't want to be late for the sunrise! That's why I booked the resort in the first place - it's the only accomodation to offer free and unrestricted passage to the famed water temple, Pura Ulun Danu Bratan regardless of the opening hours ;) As soon as I saw the dark silhuette of the wooden temple set against hues of blue and orange reflected by the water, I gasped in awe and literally ran around snapping pictures until the magical scene slowly disappeared about an hour later. Suddenly, yesterday afternoon's tiring flight and the subsequent 2 hours of unnecessarily expensive taxi ride to Bedugul seemed worth every penny!

Danu Bratan in early morning as seen from the vista point at Masjid Besar Al-Hidayah.

Room 303 at Enjung Beji Resort was especially memorable for its ultra-slippery bathroom floor, huhu.

Since most tourist guides advertised on the internet won't accept a lone traveller like myself, I asked the concierge whether he could arrange a personal tour guide for me to Jatiluwih and Singaraja. "Of course," he said, quickly phoned his brother for the car, and there we were zipping our way through the winding road down the highlands!

Jatiluwih is a vast expanse of rice terraces Indonesia nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It really gave a new meaning to the word green, as one traveller described it. There, Wayan, the concierge cum tour guide dutifully accompanied me through the terraces, offering to take pictures once in a while with my trusty camera. It was one of those rare occasions where I felt immersed in nature as I trudged along the narrow strips of earth and hopped across slender streams, glancing occasionally to Mount Agung and Mount Batukaru in the distance. At one point, it was raining lightly so we had to take cover at a cow shed in the middle of the terraces next to the cow :)

The Jatiluwih rice terraces at the further end was breathtakingly beautiful.

Next, we travelled to Singaraja. Located north of the island, Singaraja is famed for ikat, a beautiful local fabric. But what drew me to this town was Masjid Keramat (a.k.a. Masjid Kuna/Kuno), a tiny mosque mentioned only in Indonesian- and Malay-speaking blogs. Built by Sunan Parapen in 1654, it is the oldest mosque in Bali and as its name suggests, it is considered sacred by the local Muslims and Hindus alike. I took some time for prayers and reflection before taking pictures of the town's main mosque, Masjid Agung Jami' Singaraja, and heading to the nearby Lovina Beach for lunch. Lovina is of course the black sand beach from which tourists depart to see dolphins. When the brothers offered me a stop at Gitgit waterfalls on our way back to the resort, I looked at what I was wearing and I had to say no :(

Quick lunch at Lovina Beach with its black sand.

A brief stop at Masjid Agung Jami' Singaraja and the nearby Masjid Keramat.

Before Bukit Mungsu Market at Candikuning closed for the day, I dashed there for a quick look-around. It took me 45 minutes on foot (yes, I walked) to get there from Enjung Beji Resort where I stayed. Here, strawberries, snake fruits and other fresh produce grown in the neighbourhood were traded side by side with Balinese handicrafts. Indeed, ikat fabrics sold here were noticably cheaper than the ones sold at Lovina Beach, even before bargaining ;)

For dinner, I sauntered off to the nearby local restaurant for something different and ordered sate kelinci (skewered rabbit meat). It was different alright (because I never ate rabbit meat before), and the peanut sauce was a bit sweet compared to Malaysian satay. And that's the end of a promising first day in Bali!